June 6, 2003

Summertime Plotting

'Tis the time for transitions and reflections in China these days.

Next week, infamous photos of the "June 4^th Incident" will emerge from the heap of glowing statistics that China shovels onto the world stage day in and day out.

Old Deng will drift in from the grave and experts - and old freedom fighters marginalized by those heaps of statistics - out there will determine whether he was a genius who guided China toward international prestige or a tyrant who helped the Communist party retain its less than legitimate rule at the expense of freedom loving students, professors and workers.

The Tiananmen Massacre has lost its luster in the past 14 years. Beijing residents who witnessed the battles - and participated - blame themselves for getting carried away with the students and provoking the soldiers. Of course, money talks.

As it always has for China—the earliest accounts of Dutch and Portuguese spice traders never fail to describe the Chinese quarters and the resentment and envy their commercial prowess inspired amongst the natives and the invaders. Had the Chinese lost their knack for money making, well then Tiananmen might still be an issue today.

This past week, Russia, China, India and the US traded pleasantries and promises of mutual benefit and aid in the years to come. Now with the War in Iraq over, the world has a bit of space to maneuver while the hawks and doves in the US contemplate their next move.

China and Russia are taking advantage of this lull in the bloodshed to trade oil, buy weapons and sign agreements agreeing to agree more in the future—be it in Central Asia or East Asia; concerning oil or terrorists.

The Asia Times is all over the Chinese government about this SARS thing. The government is lying, that’s for sure, but here in the interior businessmen and women are breathing a sigh of relief. "It’s over" they say, and we can get back to work. Classes are starting again for the kids, travel plans are back on track and the half-days have come to an end.

More than 20,000 mingong (peasant-workers) came back to Sichuan last month. Pretty girls; short, hard old men with pipes and ripped trousers. Dull-eyed young men with more money than they know what to do with. Chengdu seems to be fuller these days, and peasants are out on the prowl—staring at foreigners and cackling at the famous Sichuan women.

"If June passes and we don’t all die, then SARS is over." This is the mantra of the locals. A lot hinges on this month.

Chinese students have either taken their tests for the year and are awaiting results, or they are starting next semester now. Most universities have a quarantines policy, so kids have to be back a few weeks early in order to avoid being cooped up in the dorms during the entire month of July. Those students who took their last tests as a Chinese undergrad are now waiting anxiously for visas abroad to be accepted.

Due to SARS and 9/11, the Consulates have received a whole new set of regulations to abide by concerning Chinese going abroad. The return rate for Chinese ranks down there with the lowest in the world, so the acceptance rate must now follow suit—Chinese are grumbling and cursing the US government for its "arbitrary" measures and "racist" policies. But unfortunately, 60% of Chinese students don’t return to the US and an unbelievable amount of "businessmen" never come back. Add this to the confusion that reigns between the INS and the Consular Services, and you find yourself with a million or so sweating young Chinese kids, wondering where they’re going to be next month.

A lot of sleepless nights this month.

Expats are circulating in and out as well. Teachers and students are heading west or south to travel through Xinjiang Thailand, businessmen who "need a break" from the insanity of the Chinese business environment are out for lunch and don’t plan on returning until the heat goes away. With the black soot blanket that covers Chinese cities getting thicker with each new automobile purchase, the heat promises to last until late August. So those who live here are making plans for the Fall, then leaving.

A lot of plots are laid in the month of June.

–Sascha Matuszak

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Sascha Matuszak is a teacher living and working in China. His articles have appeared in the South China Morning Post, the Minnesota Daily, and elsewhere. His exclusive Antiwar.com column (usually) appears Fridays.

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